The Maneuver Skill from Experienced 3D Flying Pilot

How to Become An Excellent 3D Flying Pilot

There are more and more Pilot Turn to 3D flying instead of flying other Basic and Trainer Model Airplane. So how they practice to be an excellent 3D Flying Pilot?

During the 3D maneuvers,experiment and practice with your plane until you learn everything you can about it. Here are the skill share from experienced 3D flying pilot

FIRST STEP:
Programming your radio for 3D flying is key to being an awesome 3D pilot. See our webpage on programming your radio first.

SECOND STEP:
Trimming out your plane for 3D flying is critical to being an awesome pilot. Right thrust and up thrust must be optimized. Perfect right thrust and up thrust for hovering is different than for sequence flying though they are close. This cannot be changed on a day to day basis, so you need to decide what is most important to you. It’s easier to fly sequence with 3D right thrust and upthrust than it is to fly 3D with sequence right thrust and upthrust, so if you are primarily interested in 3D, trim the plane out as follows: On a day when there is little or no wind, fly level to the center of the field at a slow speed, pull to vertical and roll to see the canopy of the plane as if you were going to do a hammer. Let the plane slow to almost a stop. Go to full throttle and let go of the sticks and fly for several seconds. If the plane veers right of left, adjust the rudder to keep the plane vertical. Do this 10 to 20 times to be sure. Then put washers under the engine mount to put in about 1/2 the angle that the rudder is (if the rudder is deflected 4 degrees, change the engine thrust by 2 degrees). Do not line up the cowl yet with the spinner backplate. Do another flying test and make adjustments until the plane goes exactly straight up when you apply throttle. Follow the same guidelines for setting the upthrust. You need upthrust based on the CG of your plane as it hangs from the propeller. If you picked up the prop and let the plane hang vertically as in a torque roll (TR), if all the components inside the plane were in proper position, the plane would point straight up and the engine thrust line would be right through the CG. This probably isn’t the case so change the engine thrust (you probably need upthrust) so that the plane doesn’t keep falling forward to the belly when in a TR.

THIRD STEP:
You should be good with the rudder. Learn rudder skills by following the steps above. You especially need rudder skills when the belly of the plane is towards you. Doing belly in hammer heads is good practice. Fly back and forth across the field inverted and do hammer heads at each end. Keep the uplines straight (using the rudder) and hammer while under control the direction that you choose.

That’s about it. I will add more 3D maneuvers from some pilot and instruction awesome 3D model airplane to you, just keep concern here and follow me!!

HandStarting RC Aircraft Engine or Using Electric Starter?

Start a model aircraft engine is surprisingly easy, it’s prime can be hand-started in a couple flips. But some propellers have extremely sharp edges.For your own safety scrape and sand this edge down. If you try to flip the propeller by hand you will get a nasty razor cut. and you may heard that some people use a Chicken Stick to start their engines if they didn’t get an standard electric starter Why start engine can be so “Informal”? Are they really all acceptable?

“Chicken Stick” Start Engines
People use a Chicken Stick to start their engines for safety purposes. A Chicken Stick is a small, hand-held, rubber coated stick that is used to flip the propeller and keep the fingers out of the propeller arc.

Hand Starting a Glow Engine
My first recommendation for starting an engine is to attempt hand starting before automatically reaching for an electric starter. It is faster and easier and not as hard on your engine. Follow these steps closely and you will be amazed at the success you have starting your engines.

Before you attempt to start your engine ensure that:
Spectators are a safe distance away and behind the propeller.
There is nothing that can get pulled into the propeller.
The glow igniter is not connected.
The fuel tank is full.
The propeller is securely mounted using a real wrench — not a four-way wrench.

If you have never run this engine before or for any reason think the high-speed needle valve is not close to the right setting then close the needle all the way. Do not crank it closed or you might damage the spray bar. Just close it until it stops. Now open it about 2 full turns. That should give the engine a sloppy rich setting. You can lean (close) the needle a bit if it is too rich after the engine is running.

To Hand Start (almost) any Engine
1. Move the throttle to idle, hook up the glow igniter and turn over the engine slowly by hand. If it kicks then skip to step 7. If you do not feel a slight kick then disconnect the igniter and continue with the next step.
2. Open the throttle all the way. Put a finger or thumb over the carburetor to seal it. Turn over the prop by hand — you will see fuel moving up the fuel line toward the carb. This is called choking.
Continue doing this until you see the fuel enter the carburetor. After you see the fuel enter the carburetor give it only one more flip. If you flip it more than once you will probably flood the engine.
3. Remove your finger from the carb and move the throttle to the idle setting.
4. Flip the propeller over sharply a half dozen times to get the fuel distributed throughout the engine.
5. Connect the glow igniter.
6. While holding the propeller, turn (do not flip) the engine over several times until you feel a definite “kick.” The kick means that it is ready to start. If the engine is flooded then be careful when you flip the prop — it may backfire and smack your hand pretty hard giving you a nice cut.
7. Give the propeller a good flip and it should start immediately. If it does not start continue to flip the prop until it no longer kicks. If it still does not start then disconnect the glow igniter and go back to step 1. Once or twice through these steps only does not even take a minute and your engine should start.

Using an Electric Starter
I think flyers abuse their engines with electric starters. I have one and I use it with my helicopter because there is really no other way to start the engine. My helicopter requires a starting shaft which replaces the aluminum cone on the front of the starter.

Whatever you do, do not keep cranking your engine with an electric starter if it will not start. You are just wearing it out (the engine and the starter). If the engine will not start then disconnect the fuel line and flip it until all the fuel is out of the engine.

If you think the engine is flooded (which it probably is if you’ve been cranking it with a starter) then you can use your starter to get most of the fuel out of your engine quickly:

Disconnect the fuel line. If you are using some type of pressurized system (muffler or pump) then plug the line. It’s a good idea to plug the line anyway so fuel doesn’t siphon out of the tank.
Remove the glow plug. Place a rag over the head so raw fuel doesn’t spray into your face.
Turn over the engine for a couple seconds to blow the excess raw fuel out.
That technique doesn’t totally un-flood the engine but it gets most of the fuel out. Put the glow plug back in and then connect the glow igniter. Be sure the throttle is at idle and flip the engine over until it kicks over. Reconnect the fuel line and the engine should start right up.
Remember, engines burn fumes, not liquids. You only need a very small amount of fuel in the engine. Most starting problems are either a bad fuel feed or a flooded engine.
Electric starters are a good thing, but they are really not necessary to start most engines. I do recommend them while cautioning you that they can cause unnecessary wear on your engine. The Sullivan starter sets the standard and is very good.

Sdshobbysupply several models starter. They are all the standard starter that most modelers use.Starters are made by other companies as well. I am sure they all work fine.

Gas Model Airplane Buy Tips (RTF, ARF, Kit)

Gas Radio Controlled Planes are more complicated, and which can be found in many different variations all suiting different levels of skill and passion. So it is probably a good idea that only more experienced fliers fly gas planes.

Gas planes usually have more expensive maintenance costs, as well as greater start up costs as opposed to electric planes. Gas planes are also difficult to learn how to fly, so When choosing the right gas plane, you will need to decide if you are going to need an instructor or if are you going to learn by yourself. If you are a beginner you should get a trainer gas rc plane, as this type of plane will help you to learn good flying skills. There are a number of options which you should look at when buying a gas radio controlled plane:

*You should choose a trainer gas plane if you are a beginner
*Wings should be high up on the fuselage above the cabin area
* wing should be large because more lift is created and will make the airplane fly slower
*Look for tricycle landing gear to make landings easier
*A flat bottom wing air foil section for better lift
*Buy a 4 to 6 channel transmitter now
*The bigger the plane, the easier it is to fly

Ready to Fly Gas RC Planes(RTF)
Picking out the right gas rc plane is very important as you don’t want to waste your time and money on bad ones. Not too many years ago remote control airplanes required hours and hours of building but now it also comes in a popular ready-to-fly kit (RTF). Some would argue that it takes all the fun away not building it yourself. This is though a matter of opinion whether you like the flying or the construction itself. Especially for the beginning remote control airplane hobbyist there are several advantages to the ready-to-fly planes.

Ready-to-fly pros and cons
Firstly, the remote control airplanes tend to be cheaper so it’s not the end of the world if you go crash it. Secondly, many of the models come in aerodynamically stable models that are not too advanced to control for a beginner. Although this means that you might get bored later it still it’s good idea (and cheaper!) to start easy. And thirdly, they are of course easy to go fly right away for those of you that tend to be impatient ;0)

Almost Ready to Fly Gas RC Planes(ARF)

Many Model RC airplanes come as almost ready-to-fly kits. And An experienced flyer may kind an almost ready to fly gas plane is perfect. Gas planes fly longer, go higher, and are more stable.The difference from the ready-to-fly kit is quite obvious: It takes a bit more work from you, but not very much. You’d typically spend somewhere between 10 to 30 hours building it.

Let’s have a look at a few Almost Ready to Fly models:

Sbach 342 50cc ARF
Wing span: 2260.6mm/88″
Length: 2110mm/ 83in
Wing area: 76sq.dm
Engine: 50-60cc
Empty weight: 3550-3800g
Radio: 6-9 channels
Flying weight:7000-7400g
Carbon Fiber Roll Tube: 25*23*835mm
Optional choice: FP2029
Carbon Fiber Roll Tube: 12*10*345mm
Optional choice: FP2012

Gas RC Planes Kits
Building a gas plane from a kit is no easy task. If you decide to buy a kit then you should be prepared to spend a little extra money as well. One word of advice when buying a kit for a gas plane is that you should always get a giant. Giants are the best to build from a kit because they produce a more satisfying plane and they tend to last longer.

What You Will Need:
A gas rc airplane (RTF, ARF, Kit)
A 2-stroke or 4-stroke engine
A fuel pump
A starter for the engine
A battery to ignition the glow plug of the engine
A 4-6 Channel radio control transmitter
The Batteries for the radio control system

Tips:Not matter you wanna Gas Model Airplane RTF,Gas Model Airplane ARF,Gas Model Airplane Kit or gas airplane accessories,You will know what you need to buy through the Best hobby store and what you don’t need to buy also be told.

Guide to Seal a Conspicuous Covering Film to Your RC Model Airplane

Guide to Make Your RC model Airplane More Conspicuous–Covering Film &Sealing Iron

Covering your RC model Airplane is one of the last things you do, but most of the hobbyists have not experience of sealing covering film. It’s not complete but also requires a lot of consideration if you want a result that’s going to handle the loads imposed by the model as well as look good. Which covering film material you select will be based on numerous factors, including the following; Fuel proofing Weight Strength Colour availability Pricing Note that even with the same covering there can be a reasonable deviation in the weight (per metre square) due to the mass of the pigments in the material, different colours have different weights.

Covering	Weight	Application method	Details
Japanese tissue	7gsm	Dope	One of the lightest coverings you can obtain. Note that this will require adhesive to apply to the airframe and doping or similar sealing.
Laminating film	???	Iron-on	Typically available in 1.5, 3, 5 and 10mil thicknesses, laminating film is an excellent low cost source of plastic type covering film. Even in the 1.5mil thickness laminating film exhibits exceptional strength to weight ratio.
Nelson Lite Film So-lite Solite	21gsm	Iron-on	Considered to be one of the better iron on ultra-light films.
Litespan	30gsm	Iron-on	Litespan is a very light synthetic tissue used in place of normal tissue/dope. It is much stronger and tougher and doesn’t need dope. Fuel proof as ironed-on.
Coloured Micafilm	40gsm (25gsm for transparent)	Framework is painted with heat-activated glue like Balsarite
Fibafilm	42gsm	Iron-on	Fibre-reinforced polyester film. Fibafilm is ideal for ‘old timer’ models, sailplanes, ‘electrics’ and any model that needs a lightweight covering that will stiffen the framework
Solarfilm	55~60gsm	Iron-on	Solarfilm is a plastic film covering (polypropylene), and is available in a wide range of solid, metallic, transparent and fluorescent colours and in a variety of sizes. It is easy to use with good shrinkage. Iron on and shrink tight with extra heat.
Solarspan	60~65gsm	Iron-on	Self-adhesive plastic film. Solarspan is a thicker, stronger version of Solarfilm. It gives a smoother finish and is easy to work round wingtips etc.
Monokote	65~75gsm	Iron-on	Considered to be a rather heavy covering for most park planes, Monokote is however rather tough and easy to use.
Econokote	gsm	Iron-on	Low temperature version of Monokote
Ultracote	70~90gsm	Iron-on
Glosstex	115~125gsm	Iron-on	Glosstex has a high-gloss two pack paint finish, is fuelproof.

SDSHobby provide variety covering films with style designs and in very shine colors，and iron-on tool, here you will find RC Special sealing iron:Prolux DIGITAL LCD SEALING IRON 230V

Pre-Flight Checklist for RC Airplanes, Safety First!

Safety First!

Pre-Flight checklists are very important in full scale airplaneflying, to ensure that pilots conduct a review of aircraft systems and or procedures prior to each flight. There are a zillion things that could go wrong during a flight. It is critical that you check everything humanly possible to minimize the risk of crashing your airplane.

The recent posts here are around the air plane, so this page today is contains a list of the most common Pre-flight checks for RC airplane. If you follow these checklist closely before each flight, you should be in good shape.

Frequency
If you’re flying at a club and have a 72 MHz radio system, you need to make sure that your frequency is free before turning on your radio! Follow your club’s pre-flight instructions for obtaining the frequency pin.

Radio Range Check
A range check is a very important pre-flight check that should be done before the first flight of each day at the flying field. Follow the procedure in your radio’s manual for doing a range check. Some radios require a slightly different procedure than others but all are similar to the following.
It’s helpful if someone holds the transmitter for you. Turn on thetransmitter, then the receiver. Leave the antenna fully collapsed. While holding the airplane, slowly walk away from the transmitter until the servos begin to twitch violently. With a PCM radio, the servos will stop moving all together. If this distance is farther than 100 ft then you are good to go! If it is less than 100ft do NOT fly! You must determine what the problem is and correct it before flying.

Check the Balance
Your should always balance your RC airplane before coming to the flying field. However, it is always a good idea to check the forward/backward balance one more time before the first flight of each day. Remember that the fuel tank must be empty when checking the balance.

Check the Bolts
The engine vibrations during flight sometimes cause bolts to vibrate loose. Make sure the bolts holding the wing to the fuselage are in place and are tight. Make sure all engine/motor mounting bolts are tight. Also make sure the propeller nut is tight.

Control Surfaces
With your radio system on, make sure the control surfaces are moving correctly with each stick movement of the transmitter. Make sure all control surfaces are secured firmly. Sometimes CA hinges can work themselves loose.Make sure all snap links are closed on the control horn clevises. You may also want to cut a small piece of fuel tubing to stretch over the snap link to keep it from coming apart in flight. Make sure all the servo horns and firmly attached to the control surfaces. Make sure the screw holding the servo horns to the servos are in place and tight.

Battery Levels
Make sure the voltage of the transmitter and receiver batteries are acceptable levels before flying. Follow the recommendations in the radio manual for minimum charge requirements. Failure to perform this pre-flight check before every flight could result in a pile of twisted balsa!

Engine
Be sure the engine is properly tuned before taking off. It’s a good idea to hold your airplane vertically with the nose upward while running your engine at full throttle to make sure it will run when in this position while in the air.Also make sure you hear the fuel clunk moving freely when shaking the airplane. Some times during a rough landing the fuel clunk can get flung towards the front of the tank and get stuck. This is sure to cause a dead stick landing.

Antenna Extended
Always double check to make sure your antenna is fully extended! It sound silly, but many times people actually forget to extend the antenna. Yep, I’ve even done it myself!

There Many RC club carry out their checklist to ensure safety, and some senior pilot will personally guide your flight, But just remember, anything could go wrong… The key is to expect the unexpected!

Fantastic RC Journey @Different RC Aircraft Types

RC Journey:Learn Different RC Aircraft Types

There are many different rc aircraft types associated with radio control flying, many of which you’ll see at an rc flying club field. If you’re completely new to the hobby and are wondering what these types of rc aircraft are, then this page will introduce you to them.

Remember that the word air craft covers all flying machines, not just conventional airplanes. Also bear in mind that the most common rc aircraft types (airplanes and helicopters) can be scale, semi-scale and non-scale models. These three terms refer to the reality of the model; whether it replicates a real aircraft (scale), is a close representation of a real aircraft (semi-scale) or is a completely made-up design (non-scale).

Whether you end up flying scale, semi-scale or non-scale rc aircraft comes down to your own personal preference. There are plenty from each category to choose from these days, a reflection of the popularity of the hobby!

The basic RC aircraft types

For the purpose of this page, rc airplanes and helicopters have been split into their own types; simply categorizing the two as aircraft types would be a bit broad given the variations available.

Collectively, rc planes account for the largest number of aircraft in the hobby. Having said that, the popularity of flying rc helicopters has grown tremendously in recent years as electric rc helicopters have surged onto the scene, and the gap between the number of rc airplane pilots and rc helicopter pilots has become much smaller than it ever has been.

Note that this page doesn’t intend to ‘officially categorize’ rc aircraft – the following list is just to introduce you to your options…

RC Airplanes

Trainer airplanes are designed for learning on. They are conventional in design and basic, with the wing on top of the fuselage for maximum stability in the air. Trainers can be powered by electric motor or internal combustion engine, glow plug (nitro) being the most common of the IC group. Trainers are available in many different sizes and shapes and count for a large sector of all rc aircraft.

Sport airplanes also make up a very large sector of all rc airplanes. They are a step or two up from a basic trainer but can also be used for training purposes, particularly low-wing training. Sport airplanes, like trainers, can be any size or shape and are more capable of performing aerobatic maneuvers than trainers are; the majority of sport planes are mid or low wing, making them better for performing such maneuvers. High wing planes like trainers, generally speaking, are not that aerobatic.

Aerobatic airplanes have been designed specifically for performing advanced aerobatic maneuvers and ‘3D’ flying. This type of rc airplane is typically mid wing with oversize control surfaces and motors (electric or nitro) that are more powerful than the airplane actually needs. Aerobatic airplanes can be thrown around the sky and flown very aggressively, so long as the pilot knows what he or she is doing!

Warbirds have always been a popular rc aircraft subject; their classic lines and smooth flying characteristics make warbirds some of the nicest looking rc airplanes out there. Not particularly suitable as an absolute first model, although there are some RTF warbirds available that have been developed with the beginner in mind. The term warbird describes a plane that was used in war, notably the First and Second World Wars. A P-51 Mustang is a classic example.

Vintage rc airplanes are a popular subject, particularly with modellers who enjoy the building side of the hobby as well as the flying side. Many classic designs date back to the late 1930s and 40s and are large in size. 3 channel radio and a 4 stroke motor make the best combination in vintage airplanes, and they are often slow, gentle flyers. Vintage planes are also known as Old Timers in some parts of the world, and you might also see them referred to as planes from the ‘Golden Era’ of aeromodelling.

RC float planes are increasing in availability but they’re obviously not as widely available as land airplanes. If you have a lake close to home, a float plane can be a lot of fun but get some good experience at landing on land before you try one! Losing an rc airplane in the drink isn’t a lot of fun…

RC Helicopters

Single rotor helicopters count for a huge sector of the rc flying hobby. Like airplanes, they can be electric or IC powered. Electric helicopters have become very popular in recent years and some are easier to fly than others. IC helicopters are much more complicated – and expensive! Learning to fly a multi-channel nitro rc helicopter is a serious business, but ultimately very rewarding. Of course, the larger size (eg 700) electric rc helicopters are just as complex as IC ones, apart from the motor side of things, and expensive too.

Coaxial rc helicopters are sometimes called contra-rotating or dual rotor helicopters. They have two main rotors that spin in opposite directions to each other. This cancels out the torque force normally generated by a spinning single rotor, and so a tail rotor isn’t required to counter any torque. This makes coaxial rc helicopters easier to fly and often more stable than a conventional helicopter.

Other RC aircraft:

Jets can be powered by electric or glow plug ducted fan or miniature gas turbine engines. These true rc jets, with gas turbines, require a lot of flying experience and a massive budget – the engine alone can cost a couple of thousand dollars! Large scale jets like these look very impressive, on the ground and in the air, and sound just like the real thing too.

Gliders are aircraft without motors. They are the simplest form of airplane and require the least number of accessories. Many gliders do have a small electric motor in the nose, these are called powered gliders. But with a true non-powered rc glider you have to rely solely on the wind and/or thermals to keep the aircraft airborne. Flying from a slope is a popular way of rc gliding.

Blimps are electric powered airships. They vary in design, but all have one thing in common – a helium filled body under which hangs the cabin and motors. The best rc blimps have two or three motors that tilt up and down to control the altitude of the blimp, and rotate to control directional movement. RC blimps are only suitable for flying indoors, or outside on a completely calm day.

Quadcopters are relatively new to the radio control flying hobby and feature four electric motors on booms coming out of a central hub or fuselage. A tricopter is a three-motored variation. These ‘copters are very stable and also agile, and the AR Parrot Drone is one that can be controlled via an iPhone!
Quadricopters are also sometimes sold as ‘RC UFOs’ but the term quadricopter has become more common in recent years. Toy rc UFOs are also available though, usually with a single motor surrounded by an outer foam body.

Ornithopters are aircraft that represent birds. True to the real thing, ornithopters are powered through the air by the flapping motion of the wings, and can look very convincing when in flight. There aren’t a huge number available to buy and are not really that popular with serious rc flyers, but are good fun anyway!

Novelty rc aircraft can cover just about anything that isn’t considered to be a conventional rc aircraft. The reality is that almost anything can be made to fly if it has the right design properties – rc flying lawn mowers, witches on sticks and flags are just some examples. These are true ‘novelty models’ and there are several manufacturers who specialize in this kind of rc aircraft for the non-serious modeller!

browse a good selection of rc aircraft types.

whatever your fancy, there are many rc aircraft types available these days and there’s sure to be something to suit your needs! If you have access to an rc simulator you can try your hand at flying many different aircraft types without actually having to buy any!

The Phoeni rc simulator, for example, includes airplanes, helicopters (single rotor & coaxial), jets, gliders, float planes and even a blimp.

Flying rc aircraft of any type is an exhilarating and addictive hobby, and one that will give you much satisfaction – guaranteed!

Primary Training Methods to Fly RC Airplane

RC Airplane Training Methods
– Primary Ways to Learn To Fly RC Model

There are several effective RC airplane training methods when it comes to learning to flyradio control airplanes (helicopters and other aircraft), and this page will give you a brief insight into each one. Hopefully the page will give you some idea of which method is right for you and your situation.

The important thing to remember when learning to fly rc airplanes and aircraft is that it will take you some time to gain confidence and better your flying skills. As with everything in life, anyone who wants to learn something new has to start on the very bottom rung of the ladder! RC airplane training is no different and you need to learn to walk before you can run, as they say.

The beauty is that these days many rc airplanes and aircraft are very user-friendly and there is a huge choice of RTF (Ready To Fly) trainers available as entry-level models. So the chances are that whichever rc airplane training method you decide to go with, your life has already been made easier by the ‘flyer-friendliness’ of your airplane.

Incidentally although these training methods do apply to all rc aircraft types, for the purpose of this page we’ll just stick with planes.

The 3 main rc airplane training methods described on this page are:
Club instruction
RC flight simulators
Self teach

Club instruction
Without doubt this is the best method of rc airplane flight training, and is the option you should choose if you want to jump in at the deep end with an IC model rather than electric power and you have no experience whatsoever.
Getting yourself along to a local rc flying club is a great idea if you want to take the hobby seriously. Use the club directory of this website to see if there’s one close to where you live.

Most clubs have certified instructors, or at least experienced rc pilots who are willing to teach, and many clubs even have a club trainer airplane reserved for use by new members, so you can ‘fly before you buy’!
If learning to fly rc airplanes at a club, there are a few methods that you’ll likely encounter…

The first one is the traditional method of side-by-side instruction, either by sharing a single transmitter or, more commonly, using a buddy box system.

For single Tx, or ‘pass-the-box’, instruction your instructor will fly the airplane and show and tell you what to do as he does it, then he’ll hand you the transmitter for you to fly the plane. If you get into difficulty he will take the transmitter from you and regain control of the airplane. When your heart has stopped racing and your hands have stopped shaking, he’ll hand back the transmitter and you can have another go.

Although this method is still used, it’s become less common since the introduction of the buddy box system…

The buddy box system is a better way of learning, and you and your instructor each hold a separate transmitter.

In conventional BB systems the transmitters are joined together by cable; the instructor holds the master transmitter while you, the student, hold the slave. With the flick of a switch the instructor can hand over or take away complete control from you, without having to take the transmitter from your hands.
The buddy box system shown right is a true system whereby the slave Tx (left) can only ever be used with the master Tx (right), but the majority of modern radios have a buddy box training capability, so the student’s slave transmitter can be a proper Tx and not just a ‘dummy’ one like the one pictured.
An alternative to the cabled system is the Wireless buddy box although this is still quite rare to see at a flying club. Second In Command (www.2icrc.com) can be used for both novice and advanced training for any RC vehicle.

The short description is that it’s a replacement for the conventional buddy box system of linking two transmitters, with the difference that it does it in the plane. The advantages may not seem immediately obvious, but what this allows is for two completely disparate Tx/Rx systems to be used to control the plane. For example, the instructor can be on 2.4GHz Futaba, and the student on a Spektrum system.

Second In Command manages all this by allowing two receivers to plug into the box pictured above. Therefore, the aircraft now carries two receivers (one for the instructor and the other for the student) and the Wireless buddy box. The in-flight buddy box is connected to both receivers, the servos being toggled between the two pilots and a battery.

Any switch/toggle or dial on the instructor’s Tx can be set to operate the unit to allow switching between the receivers; in contrast, the cable buddy box uses fixed toggles/slider/button, depending on brand, that cannot be reassigned and has to be pressed at all times to give control to the student – this can be very wearing on the finger!

Scratch the surface a little bit and other interesting uses become possible as you can, for instance, switch just one or two channels over to the trainee. So you could allow someone to learn how to hover and torque roll one channel at a time, as some flight simulators allow. Similarly, you can learn how to fly a helicopter one channel at a time (just like real pilots in flight school) while the instructor manages the rest of the controls for you. And if you’re flying a high priced model, you could use it as insurance against link issues if you’re using different channels/systems.

With the Second in Command wireless buddy box system, the pilots are also naturally not bound by the cable. Many clubs also have public access days where you can have the general public get on a buddy box and have a go. With this you could buddy box the student system and rotate the students on two Tx’s and leave the instructor alone with his system.

Buddy box systems aside, one other method of rc flight training you might see at a club is the Ragland Technique, developed by New York based rc flight instructor Clarence Ragland.

Clarence has been instructing rc for over 30 years and his method involves side-by-side instruction, but without using a buddy box or ‘pass-the-box’ system. For the Ragland Technique, the instructor holds and controls the Tx sticks with thumb and forefinger, while the student places his/her thumbs on to the top of the sticks. As the sticks are moved by the instructor, so the student can feel the amount of movement being made and see the response by the aircraft. More detailed information on Clarence’s technique can be read at http://www.raglandtechnique.zoomshare.com.

RC flight simulators

An ever-increasing method of rc airplane training is to use an rc flight simulator such as the excellent Phoenix simulator.

Such simulators are very realistic; powerful software runs on your home computer and replicates flying model aircraft down to the finest detail. Some sims come with their own transmitter-based controller while others let you use your own transmitter – either one is connected to your computer via a USB cable, although I’m sure it won’t be too long before that connection becomes a wireless one to further enhance the realism!

The range of aircraft and flying sites on the better simulators is excellent, with many popular airplanes, helicopters, jets and gliders being represented. Various parameters can be edited on the virtual models, so if you happen to have one of them in real life then you should be able to adjust the sim model to exactly, or close enough, replicate your actual one. This, combined with using your own transmitter, gives a very realistic rc flight training experience, although it has to be said that there are obviously a few differences between flying a plane on a computer screen and flying one in the real world. The differences are, however, mainly subtle.

RC flight simulators are an excellent training aid, second only to club instruction. If your budget allows, you should seriously consider buying one if you’re serious about the hobby. Read more about rc flight simulators and check out my free ebook offer.

Self-teach
You could be forgiven for thinking that teaching yourself to fly an rc airplane is not a very realistic training method. But the fact is that many RTF (Ready To Fly) airplanes these days have been designed with the complete newcomer in mind, and are relatively simple to fly.

Basic electric one or two channel rc airplanes can be flown pretty much out of the box, and they make an excellent low-cost introduction to the hobby, but they won’t give you a true rc airplane flying experience due to their limited capabilities.

Moving up to a three channel plane steepens the learning curve a bit, but self-teaching is still perfectly realistic and countless beginners have done it. An electric RTF like the famous HobbyZone Super Cub LP is a classic example, although there are many others to choose from.

Self-teaching with a four channel airplane (motor, elevator, rudder and ailerons) is still very doable but some rc flight simulator time under your belt will go a long way to giving you a more successful first flight.

Above: self-teaching on 3 and 4 channel trainers is a perfectly realistic option
With gas rc airplanes however, it’s a slightly different story, although there are many rc pilots out there who have been there and done it with great success.

But if you’re completely new to the hobby and know nothing about IC planes and what they need to work, then joining a club and getting a fellow flier to show you the ropes is by far the best option. Learning how to start and tune a glow plug engine, and keep it running, can be an art in itself and if you’re not mechanically minded, yet still want to ignore electric flight and learn on IC, then some guidance is what you really

Another note to make about self-teaching is that of flying site location – if you don’t intend joining a local club and you have a public space, such as a park, to fly in then that’s great, but be very aware that only electric powered rc airplanes are acceptable in such places. IC ones have a much higher ‘nuisance factor’ because of the noise they make, and they aren’t always welcome in public places.

However you choose to undertake your rc airplane training is dependent on the opportunities available to you. The kind of aircraft that you want to fly also makes a big difference i.e. whether you’re happy to start with a 1 or 2 channel electric park flyer and work your way up, or whether you’re keen to skip that level and start with something more serious.

Of course, you can combine any or all of the rc airplane training methods talked about above and really accelerate your flying training! The bottom line is that there are no hard and fast rules, but the thing to remember is to be responsible, but have fun while learning your new hobby!

EME55-Ⅱ55CC Gasoline Engine for Gas Airplanes, Upgraded from EME55

Upgraded EME55 Gasoline Engine/Petrol Engine EME55-Ⅱ 55CC for Gas Airplanes Similar with DA60/ DLE55

The second generation of EME55 Gasoline Engine or EME55-Ⅱ55CC,as you all know ,the newest version EME55 for gas airplane, Upgraded EME55,and it is Similar with DA60/ DLE55

New Features of this EME55-ⅡGasoline Engine:

*Engine mount is shorter than EME55; the installation size is the same with DLE55 and DA60 engine.
*Crank case and throttle regulator is the same with DA-60 and DLE55 engine.
*This engine upgrades from EME55, better performance. The ignition parameter is more scientific, ensure to make the engine stronger power and more fuel-efficient.

More Detail of EME55-ⅡGasoline Engine

Performance：
5.5HP/7500rpm
Idle Speed: 1350 rpm/min.
14.2kg Pulling Force/100 meters Altitude.
12.5kg Pulling Force/1800 meters Altitude.
Spark Plug: NGK CM6, 4.8-6V

Parameters:
Exhaust Amount: 55.6CC
Diameter * stroke: 45mm * 35mm
Ratio of compression: 7.6:1
Ratio of lubricating capacity: 30:1
Weight: 1380g (main engine), 75g (exhaust pipe)
Ignition Apparatus: 120g
Recommended Aircraft Propeller: 22*8; 22*10; 23*8; 23*10

The new EME55-Ⅱ 55CC Gasoline Engine now has has been assembled to more and more cool gas airplane, for example combo sbach 342 50cc gas plane ,sbach 300 50cc gas plane, Combo Edge 540 50cc gas plane, Combo Mxs-R 88in 50cc gas plane. Meanwhile, you can check out the old version and make more compare by yourself, then you may find more new feature of this Upgraded EME55 Gasoline Engine.

SDSHobby.net– Big RC Models Super Store

Looking for radio control (RC or R/C) airplanes, boats, cars, helicopters, or Quadcopter? How about endless amounts of radios, engines, servos, parts, accessories, and upgrades? Want a new and improved scale buggy, faster car, power engine for airplane or controller? More interested in real RC hobby rather than general hobbies? If so, you’ve come to the right place!

SDSHobby.net is the one top shop for all your ideal Radio Control,RC Model Airplane, RC Model Boat, RC Model Helicopter. We carry all the top name-brands in the industry with the Best Products…Great Prices…Reliable Worldwide shipping… Why shop anywhere else?

Radio Control Airplanes

Our product line consists of both Electric Powered and Gas/Nitro Powered Airplanes. With both, we stock a wide variety of different Beginner Level Planes, Plug entry level Airplanes, Airplane Kits, ARF – Almost Ready-to-Fly Airplanes, and RTF – Ready-to-Fly Airplanes. We not only offer all the different Planes and Kits, but we have the parts you’ll need to star flying. Click RC Airplanes to see all the different items we have available. If you already know the Brand or Manufacturer of the parts you’re interested in, just enter their name into our Store Search at the top-left of this page and click Go. Some of our popular RC Airplanes and Parts Manufacturer’s include Skylark, Esky Nemo EPP, Mirage 2000, Combo Sbach, Combo Mxs-R, Combo Edge, Combo Yak, Pitts S12, EDGE-540, PHOENIX-2000, and Carbon Fiber Version

Radio Control Boats

RC Boat product lines consist of both Electric Powered Boats and Gas/Nitro Powered Boats. With both, we stock a wide variety of different Boat Kits, ARF – Almost Ready-to-Float Boats, RTR – Ready To Run Boats. To assure you keep having fun with this exciting water-sport, we have your replacement parts and tools like various starting systems, tuned exhaust pipes, water pumps, fuel line, propellers, manifolds, rudder assembly pieces, and much, much more. Click RC Boats to see all the different RC Boats we have available. If you already know the Brand or Manufacturer of the parts you’re interested in, just enter their name into our Store Search at the top-left of this page and click Go. Some of our popular RC Boat and Part Manufacturer’s include Rocket, Nighthawk, Piranha, Sea Predator, Yamaha, New Challenger, Osprey, Navigator, Spider, Shark, Blade, Raider, Hurricane, lightning, Fiberglass, Trailblazer, Princess, Queen .

Radio Control Cars

RC Car & Truck Product Lines consist of both Electric Powered and Gas/Nitro Powered Cars & Trucks. We carry many different types of Electric Cars & Electric Trucks and Gas Cars & Gas Trucks, such as, On-Road and Off-Road Cars & Trucks, Monster Trucks, Buggy, and Truggy，climbing jeep，climbing hammer，climbing wecker，difting car，rally car，racing car, all of which are available in sizes ranging from 1/16 scale, 1/10 Scale, 1/8 Scale, 1/6 Scale, and even as big as 1/5 Scale. They are mostly 2WD-Two Wheel Drive and 4WD-Four Wheel Drive, but we do have a few odd-balls. To accompany such a wide supply of the different model vehicles, we have thousands and thousands of all the RC Car Replacement Parts, Accessories, Upgrades, Hop-Ups, Add-Ons, Tweaks, Batteries, Chargers, Speed Controls, Tires & Wheels, and Modifications you could possibly want. Click RC Cars to see all the different items we have available. If you already know the Brand or Manufacturer of the parts you’re interested in, just enter their name into our Store Search at the top-left of this page and click Go. Our popular RC Car Manufacturer’s include HSP

Radio Control Engines

RC Engine Product Lines consist of RC Airplane Engines, RC Boat Engines, RC Car & Truck Engines, RC Helicopter Engines, and RC Engine Parts, as well as a huge selection of RC Electric Motors. We have every size, stroke, turn, power, and dimension of Engines, Engine Parts, Starters, Mufflers & Tuned Pipes, Crankshafts, Pistons, Heads, Headers, Bearings, Glow Plugs, and well, just about everything you could want or need. Click RC Engines to see all the different items we have available. If you already know the Brand or Manufacturer you’re interested in, just enter their name into our Store Search at the top-left of this page and click Go. Our popular Manufacturer’s include Melody, Dynam, EME, 3MM, CRRCCpro, DJ,ASP.

Radio Control Helicopters & Quadcopter

RC Heli Product Lines consist of both Electric Powered Helicopters and Gas/Nitro Powered Helicopters and Quadcopter. With both, we stock a wide variety of different Helicopter Kits, ARF – Almost Ready-to-Fly Helicopters, and RTF – Ready-to-Fly Helicopters. With all the different varieties and sizes available, we don’t stop with the Heli’s and Kits; we’ve got the Helicopter Engines, Replacement Parts, Accessories, and Hop-Ups you’ll need to stay flying all the time. Click RC Helicopters & RC Quadcopter to see all the different items we have available. If you already know the Brand or Manufacturer of the parts you’re interested in, just enter their name into our Store Search at the top-left of this page and click Go. Some of our popular Manufacturer’s include INNOVA, BELT-CP,Fire Dragon,KDS,Honeybeking

R/C Radios

RC Radio Product Lines consist of Airplane Radios, Boat Radios, Car & Truck Radios, and RC Helicopter Radios, as well as RC Servo’s for every application. Our huge selection of varying AM and FM Frequency Radios include the following channels: 2 Channel, 3 Channel, 4 Channel, 6 Channel, 7 Channel, and 9 Channel. Not only do we just have the Radio’s for every RC Hobby Application imaginable, but we carry thousands of different Radio Parts, Crystals, Batteries & Chargers, Receivers, Modules, Switches, Telemetry, and various Servo Accessories. Click RC Radios to see all the different items we have available. If you already know the Brand or Manufacturer of the parts you’re interested in, just enter their name into our Store Search at the top-left of this page and click Go. Some of our popular Part Manufacturer’s include Dynam,JR,KDS,WFLY,Spektrum,Spring RC.

All above is what will more close to big RC model that I mention，but on such a super store, you will found more funny things at the RC model field, all in all everything you need for your RC models are all found on sdshobby.net. If not, it will arrival soon.