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Super Brightness LED Light Belts for RC Night Flying

Night Flying Accessories for your RC model,yeah,it is the LED Light Belt,All LEDs have Self-Adhesive Patch, so no need other tools to be fixed, absolutely convenient. The light belt can be used on various items as you like, such as aircraft, helicopter, boats, cars and so on.

Type I:LED Night Light Belt

Features:
Extremely light weight, weighted only 9g per meter
no interference with other items that may influence it
Working voltage is 7V-15V and the power is less than 4.5W per meter
Every 5cm place with crop marks, the shortest length of usage is 5cm(or you can use this light belt with the length 10cm, 15cm, 20cm,25cm,30cm and so on)
On the back of the light belt, it comes with 8mm adhesive patch, so no need other tools to be fixed on your aircraft, absolutely convenient
60 bulbs per meter, and the width of the light belt is 8mm
Note: The light belts have colors in: White, Yellow, Red, Blue, Green and Warm White,check out the your favorite on SDSHobby

Type II:Super Brightness LED Light Belt

Features:
Working voltage is DC12V and the power is 12W per meter and the brightness is 900ml per meter and the maximum current for the light belt is 5A per meter
Every 5cm place with crop marks, the shortest length of usage is 5cm(or you can use this light belt with the length 10cm, 15cm, 20cm,25cm,30cm and so on)
On the back of the light belt, it comes with 3M double – sided adhesive, so no need other tools to be fixed, absolutely convenient
60 bulbs per meter, and the width of the light belt is 10mm
Pls pay attention: the item is non-waterproof, and it is not RGB Chassis plate
Note: The light belt have colors in: White, Yellow, Red, Blue and Green, check out the your favorite on SDSHobby

Use these colorful brightness LED light belts to light up your RC Aircrafts for more fun flying during night time. The whole roll of light belt is 5 meters long, and if a purchase for 5 meters (that means 5pcs), we will send you the power cord and light belt reel for free as gift.

Check out Popular RC Car Via the New Arrival RC Car RTR

As expectation, Newsletter of this week comes with Off Road Buggy/ Monster Truck /Gasoline Car and on Road Drifting Car/Touring Car,totally 16 pcs RC car to option during sdshobby new arrival on Date 04/12/2012 and 04/11/2012

Gasoline Powered Car RTR
There are totally 9pcs Rovan baja series Gasoline Powered Car RTR in 1/5 Scale two-stroke Two Wheel Drive 2.4G Radio, range with 26cc,29cc,30.55cc, some of them powered with Air-Cooled Single Cylinder Two Stroke Gas Engine, for more detail of your fondest gasoline car ,check via item no. below

CG305T,CG305,CG290T,CG290S,CG290,CG260T,CG260S,CG260B,CG260A

Nitro Powered Car RTR (item no.: CN94102-AM, CN94285-AM, CN94083-AM, CN94106-AM)

HSP 1/10 Scale Nitro On Road Touring Car; 1/10 Scale Nitro Off Road Buggy; 1/16 Scale Nitro Off Road Buggy ; 1/8 Scale Nitro Off Road Monster Truck

Electric Powered Car RTR (item no.: CE94123-AM, CE94170-AM, CE94107PRO-AM)

HSP 1/10th On Road Drifting Car;1/10th Scale Electric Powered Rally Monster; 1/10th Scale Brushless Electric Powered Off Road

 

 

Check out Popular RC Car Via the New Arrival RC Car RTR on RC Hobby store

Lightest Giant Gas Airplane Slick 540 50cc 3D Aerobatics

Promotion Carbon Fiber Version Slick 540 50cc Gasoline Airplane ARF only 359.14 USD

If bigger is better and lighter is better, then here you go. Slick 540 50cc Gas Airplane is the models we are promoting and discounting,it must be the best Lightest Giant Gasoline Airplane and now it is really the cheapest model in the market. What is more is that they are all professional designed 3D aerobatics plane.

Specification:
Wing span: 2260.6mm/88″
Length: 2110mm/ 83in
Wing area: 76sq.dm
Engine: 50-60cc
Empty weight: 3550-3800g
Radio: 6-9 channels
flying weight: 7000-7400g

Features:
1. Light weight construction
2. Latest structure
3. High structural strength
4. Two pieces of removable wings
5. Super quality
6. Excellent aerobatics and 3D performance
7. Easy installation
8. Fully symmetrical aerofoil tail wing
9.Complete accessories
10. High performance hardware including: Ball linkage control system;
11.Professional designed for 3D and precision aerobatics.

Carbon Fiber Roll Tube: 25*23*835mm
Optional choice: FP2029
Carbon Fiber Roll Tube: 12*10*345mm
Optional choice: FP2012
PU wheels; C.F. Tube;, Carbon Landing gear;
Cowl with cowl ring, No exterior screws exposed ; Removable wings;
Pre mounted and painted Canopy;

Carbon Fiber accessories:
Carbon Fiber wing tube include
Carbon Fiber tail wing tube include
Carbon Fiber landing gear include
Carbon Fiber tail wheel include

Requirements for Ready to fly complete set (need buy separately)
*Engine: 50-60cc
*Radio: 6-9 channels, at least 6 servos,
*Propeller: 22×8, 22×10, 23×8, 23×10
*Spinner: 3.5inch spinner
*Receiver battery:(suggest item No.:A123-2SFJ,A123-2ST, NH1200-4,NH1500-4,NH1500-5B,NH1500-5A,NH2000-4, NH2000-5)
*Power Switch: twin power switch (one for the receiver, one for the ignition CDI),
*Fuel line

Slick 540 50cc 3D Aerobatics Gas Airplane now with optional Color (AG313-A/ AG313-B as you see) which is always top Deal in the past months on sdshobby online store. Now shop the lightest 3D aerobatics airplane

The Maneuver Skill from Experienced 3D Flying Pilot

How to Become An Excellent 3D Flying Pilot

There are more and more Pilot Turn to 3D flying instead of flying other Basic and Trainer Model Airplane. So how they practice to be an excellent 3D Flying Pilot?

3D Flying Pilot

During the 3D maneuvers,experiment and practice with your plane until you learn everything you can about it. Here are the skill share from experienced 3D flying pilot

 3D maneuvers

FIRST STEP:
Programming your radio for 3D flying is key to being an awesome 3D pilot. See our webpage on programming your radio first.

SECOND STEP:
Trimming out your plane for 3D flying is critical to being an awesome pilot. Right thrust and up thrust must be optimized. Perfect right thrust and up thrust for hovering is different than for sequence flying though they are close. This cannot be changed on a day to day basis, so you need to decide what is most important to you. It’s easier to fly sequence with 3D right thrust and upthrust than it is to fly 3D with sequence right thrust and upthrust, so if you are primarily interested in 3D, trim the plane out as follows: On a day when there is little or no wind, fly level to the center of the field at a slow speed, pull to vertical and roll to see the canopy of the plane as if you were going to do a hammer. Let the plane slow to almost a stop. Go to full throttle and let go of the sticks and fly for several seconds. If the plane veers right of left, adjust the rudder to keep the plane vertical. Do this 10 to 20 times to be sure. Then put washers under the engine mount to put in about 1/2 the angle that the rudder is (if the rudder is deflected 4 degrees, change the engine thrust by 2 degrees). Do not line up the cowl yet with the spinner backplate. Do another flying test and make adjustments until the plane goes exactly straight up when you apply throttle. Follow the same guidelines for setting the upthrust. You need upthrust based on the CG of your plane as it hangs from the propeller. If you picked up the prop and let the plane hang vertically as in a torque roll (TR), if all the components inside the plane were in proper position, the plane would point straight up and the engine thrust line would be right through the CG. This probably isn’t the case so change the engine thrust (you probably need upthrust) so that the plane doesn’t keep falling forward to the belly when in a TR.

THIRD STEP:
You should be good with the rudder. Learn rudder skills by following the steps above. You especially need rudder skills when the belly of the plane is towards you. Doing belly in hammer heads is good practice. Fly back and forth across the field inverted and do hammer heads at each end. Keep the uplines straight (using the rudder) and hammer while under control the direction that you choose.

That’s about it. I will add more 3D maneuvers from some pilot and instruction awesome 3D model airplane to you, just keep concern here and follow me!!

HandStarting RC Aircraft Engine or Using Electric Starter?

Start a model aircraft engine is surprisingly easy, it’s prime can be hand-started in a couple flips. But some propellers have extremely sharp edges.For your own safety scrape and sand this edge down. If you try to flip the propeller by hand you will get a nasty razor cut. and you may heard that some people use a Chicken Stick to start their engines if they didn’t get an standard electric starter Why start engine can be so “Informal”? Are they really all acceptable?

“Chicken Stick” Start Engines
People use a Chicken Stick to start their engines for safety purposes. A Chicken Stick is a small, hand-held, rubber coated stick that is used to flip the propeller and keep the fingers out of the propeller arc.

Start Engines

Hand Starting a Glow Engine
My first recommendation for starting an engine is to attempt hand starting before automatically reaching for an electric starter. It is faster and easier and not as hard on your engine. Follow these steps closely and you will be amazed at the success you have starting your engines.

Hand Starting a Glow Engine

Before you attempt to start your engine ensure that:
Spectators are a safe distance away and behind the propeller.
There is nothing that can get pulled into the propeller.
The glow igniter is not connected.
The fuel tank is full.
The propeller is securely mounted using a real wrench — not a four-way wrench.

If you have never run this engine before or for any reason think the high-speed needle valve is not close to the right setting then close the needle all the way. Do not crank it closed or you might damage the spray bar. Just close it until it stops. Now open it about 2 full turns. That should give the engine a sloppy rich setting. You can lean (close) the needle a bit if it is too rich after the engine is running.

To Hand Start (almost) any Engine
1. Move the throttle to idle, hook up the glow igniter and turn over the engine slowly by hand. If it kicks then skip to step 7. If you do not feel a slight kick then disconnect the igniter and continue with the next step.
2. Open the throttle all the way. Put a finger or thumb over the carburetor to seal it. Turn over the prop by hand — you will see fuel moving up the fuel line toward the carb. This is called choking.
Continue doing this until you see the fuel enter the carburetor. After you see the fuel enter the carburetor give it only one more flip. If you flip it more than once you will probably flood the engine.
3. Remove your finger from the carb and move the throttle to the idle setting.
4. Flip the propeller over sharply a half dozen times to get the fuel distributed throughout the engine.
5. Connect the glow igniter.
6. While holding the propeller, turn (do not flip) the engine over several times until you feel a definite “kick.” The kick means that it is ready to start. If the engine is flooded then be careful when you flip the prop — it may backfire and smack your hand pretty hard giving you a nice cut.
7. Give the propeller a good flip and it should start immediately. If it does not start continue to flip the prop until it no longer kicks. If it still does not start then disconnect the glow igniter and go back to step 1. Once or twice through these steps only does not even take a minute and your engine should start.

Using an Electric Starter
I think flyers abuse their engines with electric starters. I have one and I use it with my helicopter because there is really no other way to start the engine. My helicopter requires a starting shaft which replaces the aluminum cone on the front of the starter.

 Electric Starter

Whatever you do, do not keep cranking your engine with an electric starter if it will not start. You are just wearing it out (the engine and the starter). If the engine will not start then disconnect the fuel line and flip it until all the fuel is out of the engine.

If you think the engine is flooded (which it probably is if you’ve been cranking it with a starter) then you can use your starter to get most of the fuel out of your engine quickly:

Disconnect the fuel line. If you are using some type of pressurized system (muffler or pump) then plug the line. It’s a good idea to plug the line anyway so fuel doesn’t siphon out of the tank.
Remove the glow plug. Place a rag over the head so raw fuel doesn’t spray into your face.
Turn over the engine for a couple seconds to blow the excess raw fuel out.
That technique doesn’t totally un-flood the engine but it gets most of the fuel out. Put the glow plug back in and then connect the glow igniter. Be sure the throttle is at idle and flip the engine over until it kicks over. Reconnect the fuel line and the engine should start right up.
Remember, engines burn fumes, not liquids. You only need a very small amount of fuel in the engine. Most starting problems are either a bad fuel feed or a flooded engine.
Electric starters are a good thing, but they are really not necessary to start most engines. I do recommend them while cautioning you that they can cause unnecessary wear on your engine. The Sullivan starter sets the standard and is very good.

Sdshobbysupply several models starter. They are all the standard starter that most modelers use.Starters are made by other companies as well. I am sure they all work fine.

Gas Model Airplane Buy Tips (RTF, ARF, Kit)

Gas Radio Controlled Planes are more complicated, and which can be found in many different variations all suiting different levels of skill and passion. So it is probably a good idea that only more experienced fliers fly gas planes.

gas model airplane

Gas planes usually have more expensive maintenance costs, as well as greater start up costs as opposed to electric planes. Gas planes are also difficult to learn how to fly, so When choosing the right gas plane, you will need to decide if you are going to need an instructor or if are you going to learn by yourself. If you are a beginner you should get a trainer gas rc plane, as this type of plane will help you to learn good flying skills. There are a number of options which you should look at when buying a gas radio controlled plane:

*You should choose a trainer gas plane if you are a beginner
*Wings should be high up on the fuselage above the cabin area
* wing should be large because more lift is created and will make the airplane fly slower
*Look for tricycle landing gear to make landings easier
*A flat bottom wing air foil section for better lift
*Buy a 4 to 6 channel transmitter now
*The bigger the plane, the easier it is to fly

Ready to Fly Gas RC Planes(RTF)
Picking out the right gas rc plane is very important as you don’t want to waste your time and money on bad ones. Not too many years ago remote control airplanes required hours and hours of building but now it also comes in a popular ready-to-fly kit (RTF). Some would argue that it takes all the fun away not building it yourself. This is though a matter of opinion whether you like the flying or the construction itself. Especially for the beginning remote control airplane hobbyist there are several advantages to the ready-to-fly planes.

Ready-to-fly pros and cons
Firstly, the remote control airplanes tend to be cheaper so it’s not the end of the world if you go crash it. Secondly, many of the models come in aerodynamically stable models that are not too advanced to control for a beginner. Although this means that you might get bored later it still it’s good idea (and cheaper!) to start easy. And thirdly, they are of course easy to go fly right away for those of you that tend to be impatient ;0)

Almost Ready to Fly Gas RC Planes(ARF)

Many Model RC airplanes come as almost ready-to-fly kits. And An experienced flyer may kind an almost ready to fly gas plane is perfect. Gas planes fly longer, go higher, and are more stable.The difference from the ready-to-fly kit is quite obvious: It takes a bit more work from you, but not very much. You’d typically spend somewhere between 10 to 30 hours building it.

Let’s have a look at a few Almost Ready to Fly models:

Sbach 342 50cc ARF

Sbach 342 50cc ARF
Wing span: 2260.6mm/88″
Length: 2110mm/ 83in
Wing area: 76sq.dm
Engine: 50-60cc
Empty weight: 3550-3800g
Radio: 6-9 channels
Flying weight:7000-7400g
Carbon Fiber Roll Tube: 25*23*835mm
Optional choice: FP2029
Carbon Fiber Roll Tube: 12*10*345mm
Optional choice: FP2012

Gas RC Planes Kits
Building a gas plane from a kit is no easy task. If you decide to buy a kit then you should be prepared to spend a little extra money as well. One word of advice when buying a kit for a gas plane is that you should always get a giant. Giants are the best to build from a kit because they produce a more satisfying plane and they tend to last longer.

What You Will Need:
A gas rc airplane (RTF, ARF, Kit)
A 2-stroke or 4-stroke engine
A fuel pump
A starter for the engine
A battery to ignition the glow plug of the engine
A 4-6 Channel radio control transmitter
The Batteries for the radio control system

gas airplane accessories

Tips:Not matter you wanna Gas Model Airplane RTF,Gas Model Airplane ARF,Gas Model Airplane Kit or gas airplane accessories,You will know what you need to buy through the Best hobby store and what you don’t need to buy also be told.

China wholesale discount gas airplane

Guide to Seal a Conspicuous Covering Film to Your RC Model Airplane

Guide to Make Your RC model Airplane More Conspicuous–Covering Film &Sealing Iron

Sealing covering films

Covering your RC model Airplane is one of the last things you do, but most of the hobbyists have not experience of sealing covering film. It’s not complete but also requires a lot of consideration if you want a result that’s going to handle the loads imposed by the model as well as look good. Which covering film material you select will be based on numerous factors, including the following;

  • Fuel proofing
  • Weight
  • Strength
  • Colour availability
  • Pricing

Covering Film

Note that even with the same covering there can be a reasonable deviation in the weight (per metre square) due to the mass of the pigments in the material, different colours have different weights.

Covering Weight Application method Details
Japanese tissue 7gsm Dope One of the lightest coverings you can obtain. Note that this will require adhesive to apply to the airframe and doping or similar sealing.
Laminating film ??? Iron-on Typically available in 1.5, 3, 5 and 10mil thicknesses, laminating film is an excellent low cost source of plastic type covering film. Even in the 1.5mil thickness laminating film exhibits exceptional strength to weight ratio.
Nelson Lite Film
So-lite
Solite
21gsm Iron-on Considered to be one of the better iron on ultra-light films.
Litespan 30gsm Iron-on Litespan is a very light synthetic tissue used in place of normal tissue/dope. It is much stronger and tougher and doesn’t need dope. Fuel proof as ironed-on.
Coloured Micafilm 40gsm (25gsm for transparent) Framework is painted with heat-activated glue like Balsarite
Fibafilm 42gsm Iron-on Fibre-reinforced polyester film. Fibafilm is ideal for ‘old timer’ models, sailplanes, ‘electrics’ and any model that needs a lightweight covering that will stiffen the framework
Solarfilm 55~60gsm Iron-on Solarfilm is a plastic film covering (polypropylene), and is available in a wide range of solid, metallic, transparent and fluorescent colours and in a variety of sizes. It is easy to use with good shrinkage. Iron on and shrink tight with extra heat.
Solarspan 60~65gsm Iron-on Self-adhesive plastic film. Solarspan is a thicker, stronger version of Solarfilm. It gives a smoother finish and is easy to work round wingtips etc.
Monokote 65~75gsm Iron-on Considered to be a rather heavy covering for most park planes, Monokote is however rather tough and easy to use.
Econokote gsm Iron-on Low temperature version of Monokote
Ultracote 70~90gsm Iron-on
Glosstex 115~125gsm Iron-on Glosstex has a high-gloss two pack paint finish, is fuelproof.

Prolux DIGITAL LCD SEALING IRON

SDSHobby provide variety covering films with style designs and in very shine colors,and iron-on tool, here you will find RC Special sealing iron:Prolux DIGITAL LCD SEALING IRON 230V

Pre-Flight Checklist for RC Airplanes, Safety First!

Safety First!

Pre-Flight Checklist

Pre-Flight checklists are very important in full scale airplaneflying, to ensure that pilots conduct a review of aircraft systems and or procedures prior to each flight. There are a zillion things that could go wrong during a flight. It is critical that you check everything humanly possible to minimize the risk of crashing your airplane.

The recent posts here are around the air plane, so this page today is contains a list of the most common Pre-flight checks for RC airplane. If you follow these checklist closely before each flight, you should be in good shape.

Frequency
If you’re flying at a club and have a 72 MHz radio system, you need to make sure that your frequency is free before turning on your radio! Follow your club’s pre-flight instructions for obtaining the frequency pin.

Radio Range Check
A range check is a very important pre-flight check that should be done before the first flight of each day at the flying field. Follow the procedure in your radio’s manual for doing a range check. Some radios require a slightly different procedure than others but all are similar to the following.
It’s helpful if someone holds the transmitter for you. Turn on thetransmitter, then the receiver. Leave the antenna fully collapsed. While holding the airplane, slowly walk away from the transmitter until the servos begin to twitch violently. With a PCM radio, the servos will stop moving all together. If this distance is farther than 100 ft then you are good to go! If it is less than 100ft do NOT fly! You must determine what the problem is and correct it before flying.

Check the Balance
Your should always balance your RC airplane before coming to the flying field. However, it is always a good idea to check the forward/backward balance one more time before the first flight of each day. Remember that the fuel tank must be empty when checking the balance.

Check the Bolts
The engine vibrations during flight sometimes cause bolts to vibrate loose. Make sure the bolts holding the wing to the fuselage are in place and are tight. Make sure all engine/motor mounting bolts are tight. Also make sure the propeller nut is tight.

Control Surfaces
With your radio system on, make sure the control surfaces are moving correctly with each stick movement of the transmitter. Make sure all control surfaces are secured firmly. Sometimes CA hinges can work themselves loose.Make sure all snap links are closed on the control horn clevises. You may also want to cut a small piece of fuel tubing to stretch over the snap link to keep it from coming apart in flight. Make sure all the servo horns and firmly attached to the control surfaces. Make sure the screw holding the servo horns to the servos are in place and tight.

Battery Levels
Make sure the voltage of the transmitter and receiver batteries are acceptable levels before flying. Follow the recommendations in the radio manual for minimum charge requirements. Failure to perform this pre-flight check before every flight could result in a pile of twisted balsa!

Engine
Be sure the engine is properly tuned before taking off. It’s a good idea to hold your airplane vertically with the nose upward while running your engine at full throttle to make sure it will run when in this position while in the air.Also make sure you hear the fuel clunk moving freely when shaking the airplane. Some times during a rough landing the fuel clunk can get flung towards the front of the tank and get stuck. This is sure to cause a dead stick landing.

Antenna Extended
Always double check to make sure your antenna is fully extended! It sound silly, but many times people actually forget to extend the antenna. Yep, I’ve even done it myself!

RC Airplanes Pre-Flight

There Many RC club carry out their checklist to ensure safety, and some senior pilot will personally guide your flight, But just remember, anything could go wrong… The key is to expect the unexpected!

Fantastic RC Journey @Different RC Aircraft Types

RC Journey:Learn Different RC Aircraft Types

There are many different rc aircraft types associated with radio control flying, many of which you’ll see at an rc flying club field. If you’re completely new to the hobby and are wondering what these types of rc aircraft are, then this page will introduce you to them.

Remember that the word air craft covers all flying machines, not just conventional airplanes. Also bear in mind that the most common rc aircraft types (airplanes and helicopters) can be scale, semi-scale and non-scale models. These three terms refer to the reality of the model; whether it replicates a real aircraft (scale), is a close representation of a real aircraft (semi-scale) or is a completely made-up design (non-scale).

Whether you end up flying scale, semi-scale or non-scale rc aircraft comes down to your own personal preference. There are plenty from each category to choose from these days, a reflection of the popularity of the hobby!

The basic RC aircraft types

For the purpose of this page, rc airplanes and helicopters have been split into their own types; simply categorizing the two as aircraft types would be a bit broad given the variations available.

Collectively, rc planes account for the largest number of aircraft in the hobby. Having said that, the popularity of flying rc helicopters has grown tremendously in recent years as electric rc helicopters have surged onto the scene, and the gap between the number of rc airplane pilots and rc helicopter pilots has become much smaller than it ever has been.

Note that this page doesn’t intend to ‘officially categorize’ rc aircraft – the following list is just to introduce you to your options…

RC Airplanes

Trainer airplanes are designed for learning on. They are conventional in design and basic, with the wing on top of the fuselage for maximum stability in the air. Trainers can be powered by electric motor or internal combustion engine, glow plug (nitro) being the most common of the IC group. Trainers are available in many different sizes and shapes and count for a large sector of all rc aircraft.

Trainer airplanes

Sport airplanes also make up a very large sector of all rc airplanes. They are a step or two up from a basic trainer but can also be used for training purposes, particularly low-wing training. Sport airplanes, like trainers, can be any size or shape and are more capable of performing aerobatic maneuvers than trainers are; the majority of sport planes are mid or low wing, making them better for performing such maneuvers. High wing planes like trainers, generally speaking, are not that aerobatic.

Sport airplanes

Aerobatic airplanes have been designed specifically for performing advanced aerobatic maneuvers and ‘3D’ flying. This type of rc airplane is typically mid wing with oversize control surfaces and motors (electric or nitro) that are more powerful than the airplane actually needs. Aerobatic airplanes can be thrown around the sky and flown very aggressively, so long as the pilot knows what he or she is doing!

Aerobatic airplanes

Warbirds have always been a popular rc aircraft subject; their classic lines and smooth flying characteristics make warbirds some of the nicest looking rc airplanes out there. Not particularly suitable as an absolute first model, although there are some RTF warbirds available that have been developed with the beginner in mind. The term warbird describes a plane that was used in war, notably the First and Second World Wars. A P-51 Mustang is a classic example.

Warbirds

Vintage rc airplanes are a popular subject, particularly with modellers who enjoy the building side of the hobby as well as the flying side. Many classic designs date back to the late 1930s and 40s and are large in size. 3 channel radio and a 4 stroke motor make the best combination in vintage airplanes, and they are often slow, gentle flyers. Vintage planes are also known as Old Timers in some parts of the world, and you might also see them referred to as planes from the ‘Golden Era’ of aeromodelling.

RC float planes are increasing in availability but they’re obviously not as widely available as land airplanes. If you have a lake close to home, a float plane can be a lot of fun but get some good experience at landing on land before you try one! Losing an rc airplane in the drink isn’t a lot of fun…

RC float planes

RC Helicopters

Single rotor helicopters count for a huge sector of the rc flying hobby. Like airplanes, they can be electric or IC powered. Electric helicopters have become very popular in recent years and some are easier to fly than others. IC helicopters are much more complicated – and expensive! Learning to fly a multi-channel nitro rc helicopter is a serious business, but ultimately very rewarding. Of course, the larger size (eg 700) electric rc helicopters are just as complex as IC ones, apart from the motor side of things, and expensive too.

Single rotor helicopters

Coaxial rc helicopters are sometimes called contra-rotating or dual rotor helicopters. They have two main rotors that spin in opposite directions to each other. This cancels out the torque force normally generated by a spinning single rotor, and so a tail rotor isn’t required to counter any torque. This makes coaxial rc helicopters easier to fly and often more stable than a conventional helicopter.

Other RC aircraft:

Jets can be powered by electric or glow plug ducted fan or miniature gas turbine engines. These true rc jets, with gas turbines, require a lot of flying experience and a massive budget – the engine alone can cost a couple of thousand dollars! Large scale jets like these look very impressive, on the ground and in the air, and sound just like the real thing too.

Gliders are aircraft without motors. They are the simplest form of airplane and require the least number of accessories. Many gliders do have a small electric motor in the nose, these are called powered gliders. But with a true non-powered rc glider you have to rely solely on the wind and/or thermals to keep the aircraft airborne. Flying from a slope is a popular way of rc gliding.

Blimps are electric powered airships. They vary in design, but all have one thing in common – a helium filled body under which hangs the cabin and motors. The best rc blimps have two or three motors that tilt up and down to control the altitude of the blimp, and rotate to control directional movement. RC blimps are only suitable for flying indoors, or outside on a completely calm day.

Quadcopters are relatively new to the radio control flying hobby and feature four electric motors on booms coming out of a central hub or fuselage. A tricopter is a three-motored variation. These ‘copters are very stable and also agile, and the AR Parrot Drone is one that can be controlled via an iPhone!
Quadricopters are also sometimes sold as ‘RC UFOs’ but the term quadricopter has become more common in recent years. Toy rc UFOs are also available though, usually with a single motor surrounded by an outer foam body.

Quadcopters

Ornithopters are aircraft that represent birds. True to the real thing, ornithopters are powered through the air by the flapping motion of the wings, and can look very convincing when in flight. There aren’t a huge number available to buy and are not really that popular with serious rc flyers, but are good fun anyway!

Novelty rc aircraft can cover just about anything that isn’t considered to be a conventional rc aircraft. The reality is that almost anything can be made to fly if it has the right design properties – rc flying lawn mowers, witches on sticks and flags are just some examples. These are true ‘novelty models’ and there are several manufacturers who specialize in this kind of rc aircraft for the non-serious modeller!

browse a good selection of rc aircraft types.

whatever your fancy, there are many rc aircraft types available these days and there’s sure to be something to suit your needs! If you have access to an rc simulator you can try your hand at flying many different aircraft types without actually having to buy any!

The Phoeni rc simulator, for example, includes airplanes, helicopters (single rotor & coaxial), jets, gliders, float planes and even a blimp.

Flying rc aircraft of any type is an exhilarating and addictive hobby, and one that will give you much satisfaction – guaranteed!

EME55-Ⅱ55CC Gasoline Engine for Gas Airplanes, Upgraded from EME55

Upgraded EME55 Gasoline Engine/Petrol Engine EME55-Ⅱ 55CC for Gas Airplanes Similar with DA60/ DLE55

EME55-Ⅱ55CC Gasoline Engine

The second generation of EME55 Gasoline Engine or EME55-Ⅱ55CC,as you all know ,the newest version EME55 for gas airplane, Upgraded EME55,and it is Similar with DA60/ DLE55

EME55-Ⅱ 55CC/DA60/ DLE55

New Features of this EME55-ⅡGasoline Engine:

*Engine mount is shorter than EME55; the installation size is the same with DLE55 and DA60 engine.
*Crank case and throttle regulator is the same with DA-60 and DLE55 engine.
*This engine upgrades from EME55, better performance. The ignition parameter is more scientific, ensure to make the engine stronger power and more fuel-efficient.

More Detail of EME55-ⅡGasoline Engine

Performance:
5.5HP/7500rpm
Idle Speed: 1350 rpm/min.
14.2kg Pulling Force/100 meters Altitude.
12.5kg Pulling Force/1800 meters Altitude.
Spark Plug: NGK CM6, 4.8-6V

Parameters:
Exhaust Amount: 55.6CC
Diameter * stroke: 45mm * 35mm
Ratio of compression: 7.6:1
Ratio of lubricating capacity: 30:1
Weight: 1380g (main engine), 75g (exhaust pipe)
Ignition Apparatus: 120g
Recommended Aircraft Propeller: 22*8; 22*10; 23*8; 23*10

The new EME55-Ⅱ 55CC Gasoline Engine now has has been assembled to more and more cool gas airplane, for example combo sbach 342 50cc gas plane ,sbach 300 50cc gas plane, Combo Edge 540 50cc gas plane, Combo Mxs-R 88in 50cc gas plane. Meanwhile, you can check out the old version and make more compare by yourself, then you may find more new feature of this Upgraded EME55 Gasoline Engine.

EME55-Ⅱ

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